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- California's Responsible Textile Recovery Act Making Headway and More
California's Responsible Textile Recovery Act Making Headway and More
Happy Thursday and Happy Fourth of July to our American readers!
We’re kicking off this week’s newsletter with a recent update on California’s Responsible Textile Recovery Act, before diving into an analysis on the environmental impact of synthetic and natural textile dyes.
Keep reading for our weekly brand partner spotlight and innovative companies in the fashion space!
Thanks for reading!
Headlines
California's Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024, referred to by Senator Josh Newman as a "landmark, first-in-the-country, textile recycling bill,” has passed a recent California Assembly Natural Resources Committee vote 9-3.
This bill was originally introduced last year but has undergone significant revisions through collaboration with a diverse set of stakeholders, including environmental organizations, industry leaders, and community groups.
The bill aims to establish an extended producer responsibility (EPR) program, requiring producers to implement and fund a program to facilitate the reuse, repair and recycling of clothing and textiles.
The bill will be sent to the California Assembly Appropriations Committee for a hearing before moving to the full assembly for a vote. If passed, this will be a significant step forwards to address the significant waste generated by the fast fashion industry and incentivize companies to use more easy to recycle materials.
Analysis of the Week
There are many aspects related to the manufacturing of textiles where there is opportunity to create a more sustainable impact. The dyeing of textile fabrics is one of the most polluting processes in the fashion industry, but it is often overlooked.
One reason why many recycled fabrics have a less significant environmental footprint is not needing to be redyed. Many brands are exploring alternatives to conventional chemical dyes. Let’s take a look at the impact of some conventional dyes as well as more sustainable alternatives.
Factor | Synthetic dyes | Natural Dyes | ||
Type | Azo Dyes | Reactive Dyes | Indigo | Turmeric |
Water Pollution & Consumption | Release more toxic chemicals and is a heavy water pollutant | Less pollution than azo dyes, but require more water usage | Minimal, indigo is biodegradable | No negative impact |
Carbon Footprint | High, synthetic processes require fossil fuels | Lower, natural extraction methods | ||
Impact to Human Health | Release carcinogens | Potentially allergic reactions | Minimal health risks | No health risks |
Biodiversity Impact | toxic to aquatic life | Negative impact to aquatic life, but less significant than azo | Natural and support biodiversity since they are plant-based | |
Waste Generation | Significant, can release much hazardous waste | Less waste, often biodegradable | ||
Cost | cheaper due to mass production | higher due to labor intensity, difficult to mass produce | ||
Color retention | High, maintains color well | High, stronger than azo dyes | medium | low |
Currently cost and the ability of the fabric to retain its color are major barriers for industry wide changes to the way we dye fabrics. Natural dyes are currently not suited for batch production as well.
Some reactive dyes, while synthetic, are relatively lower impact and some consider to be a fairer compromise. There are many brands looking to innovate in the space of nontoxic, sustainable dyes that can also still meet the demands of fashion.
Brand Spotlight
Learn about one of the sustainable brands on Trace’s marketplace!
Check out today’s featured brand: Orso Activewear
Orso makes ethically produced activewear that comes from the ocean! Orso aims to create a brand that supports and empowers women of all backgrounds and sizes and be a brand that not only leaves a minimal footprint but also gives back to the world.
Orso’s fabric is made from recovered old fishing nets that are turned into recycled nylon in factories that are certified for their ethical manufacturing and fair labor practices. In terms of ocean conservation, Orso also collaborates with an organization known as CleanHub, which empowers disadvantaged communities by providing employment opportunities for ocean cleanup initiatives around the world.
Orso has reaffirmed its commitment to sustainability with a goal of manufacturing all of their products from 100% recycled materials.
Innovation in Fashion
John Lewis & Partners, British high end department store chain that has recently launched a 20 piece circularly designed product line, teaming up with the University of Exeter to develop a long-term strategy for its future products to be designed with circularity in mind.
Fulgar, This Italian yarn manufacturer has launched a new bio-based yarn known as Q-Geo which is partially produced from not-edible corn that is too old or is no longer suitable for nutritional use. This yarn is also OEKO-TEX certified.
Ecology Packaging, A packaging company that works with brands to create cost-effective, sustainable, branded packaging.
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