Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation in Effect in the EU

Happy Thursday!

We’re excited to kick off our newsletter this week with a discussion on what’s going on in the industry. In conversation this week we’ll dive into some of the new regulatory requirements that have officially gone into effect in the EU.

We’ll also revisit an analysis of the sustainability of various fabrics.

 Thanks for reading!

Headlines

The European Commission is advancing its commitment to sustainability with the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) officially going into effect today, July 18, 2024. This initiative is part of the European Green Deal and aims to make products more environmentally friendly, circular, and energy-efficient throughout their lifecycle.

Key Features of the ESPR:

Extended Scope: Unlike previous regulations, the ESPR applies to a wide range of products beyond energy-related ones, including textiles, furniture, and electronics.

Product Requirements: The regulation sets new requirements for product durability, reusability, upgradability, and recyclability. It encourages the use of recycled materials and aims to reduce harmful substances in products.

Digital Product Passport: Each product will have a digital passport providing information on its environmental impact, materials used, and repair instructions. This transparency aims to empower consumers to make informed choices.

Circular Economy Focus: The regulation supports the transition to a circular economy by promoting sustainable product design, efficient use of resources, and reducing waste.

This regulation is a significant step toward achieving the EU's climate goals and creating a more sustainable future. It reflects the EU's leadership in promoting eco-friendly products and reducing environmental impacts.

Read more here

Analysis of the Week

One of the factors that goes into the sustainability of clothing is the fabric used. Let’s take a look at some of the less sustainable fabrics to avoid, and consider some more sustainable alternatives.

Fabric

Why it’s not sustainable

Alternative Considerations

Polyester

Most polyester is not biodegradable and will pile up in landfills. Polyester is also produced in an unsustainable manner, derived partially from oil and requires large amounts of water to produce. Polyester also releases microplastics through heavy washing.

Recycled polyester (rPET) - This is made from plastic bottles and uses less water than regular polyester. However, rPET still releases microplastics during washing, so this is not the most highly recommended fabric.

Nylon

Nylon is a synthetic fabric used in tights and stockings, as well as swim-wear and active wear. Nylon is not biodegradable, uses petroleum and heavy amounts of water during production, and releases microplastics through washing.

Econyl is a nylon alternative fabric made from synthetic waste such as plastic, waste fabric and fishing nets. Econyl is produced in a closed loop system which uses less water and creates less waste. The downside with Econyl is that it also releases small amounts of microplastics.

Rayon

Although Rayon is a plant based fabric and more sustainable than nylon or polyester, it is often a culprit of greenwashing. Rayon is derived from wood pulp of eucalyptus, spruce and pine trees. Often times, the wood pulp is not harvested sustainably, and heavy chemicals that are dangerous for workers are used during the production process. Rayon is also a major contributor of deforestation.

TENCEL Lyocell fabric is made from wood pulp, similar to rayon. TENCEL requires less water in production than traditional fibers, including regular cotton, is a less chemically intensive process than Rayon, and intentionally uses responsibly-sourced wood.

Traditional Cotton

Cotton is a commonly used fabric with shockingly devastating consequences. Cotton requires heavy water usage and the production process often pollutes waterways with chemicals and dyes. Conventional cotton is also grown with a significant amount of pesticides.

Organic and/or Recycled Cotton is always a better alternative to traditionally produced cotton.

While recycled cotton is the most preferable alternative, produced from consumer waste and less water & energy needed for production, organic cotton is also a decent substitute to traditional cotton as it doesn’t use pesticides and harmful chemicals in its’ production process.

Other alternatives and methods to combat unsustainable fibers:

  • Organic Hemp or Linen Fabrics - These are some of the more sustainable clothing options you can consider. These fabrics are both derived from plants and use less water during production. They also do not release microplastics during washing, and are biodegradable fabrics.

  • Microfiber Wash Bags- Many brands produce washing bags for you to be able to wash synthetic fabrics such as polyester that typically release microplastics while in the washing machine. The washing bags will capture microfibers which you can easily dispose of after the wash.

Brand Spotlight

Learn about one of the sustainable brands on Trace’s marketplace! Today we’re revisiting one of our first featured brands!

Check out today’s featured brand: Seeds & Stories

Seeds & Stories seeks to empower rural women through regenerative fashion.

In 2018, the founder, Margarida came across the town of Bigodi in Uganda and learned about the traditional basket weaving practices of the local women artisans. Over the next few years, she learned about the economic and social issues within the community that affected the women, and worked with local community leaders on identifying ways to help the local women and community as a whole develop their economy and find income sources outside of tourism that worked in harmony with nature.

Seeds and Stories is currently focused on developing quality hand-made products that support the livelihoods of women artisans in Bigodi, as well as new training programs that provide skills and environmental knowledge to the broader community.

Seeds & Stories artisans use local raw materials such as palm leaf, millet straws, papyrus, and banana fiber that have regenerative properties in local ecosystems, namely increasing soil fertility and enhancing biodiversity.

Their long-term objectives are to provide sustainable livelihoods for local women, create greater food security, advance gender equality, and promote environmental regeneration.

Innovation in Fashion

Galy - Biotech firm which creates lab-grown cotton to bypass the traditional sustainability related issues that comes from sustainable farming 

Queen of Raw - SaaS platform that allows firms to manage their excess inventory 

Refiberd - textile sorting technology that uses AI & hyperspectral imaging to detect fiber composition and contaminants in textile waste, allowing fibers to be recycled properly

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